Navajo National Monument - Betataken Cliff Dwelling

Thursday May 23 - Sunday May 26th - Navajo National Monument
Sunset View Campground

On Thursday May 23rd, we checked out of our Jacob Lake Inn room and drove from there past the Vermillion Cliffs, toward the Navajo National Monument, home of the Betataken and Keet Seel Cliff Dwellings. We crossed over the Navajo Bridge and the very muddy, but rushing Colorado River and drove into the Native American reservation area. It was raining and hailing, but periodic glimpses of the sun through the black clouds gave promise of blue sky days to come. A view of Navajo Mountain in the distance followed along with us as we drove.

Crossing the muddy Colorado River

The famous Navajo Bridge

Our new camp spot - a view and warmth from the sun!

The deep canyon where the Betataken and Keet Seel cliff 
dwellings are accessible to hikers.

The Sunset View Campground road in the monument was paved! We were fortunate to avoid that sticky red clay mud! We located a perfect site #13 at the top of the hill, providing maximum sun and a great view and we set up camp there. We were coming into Memorial day weekend, but the campground was not yet crowded - thanks to it being virtually unknown to visitors from outside the area.

Our sunset canyon view

The view of Betataken from the top of the canyon

When we were in our 20's, we had visited the area and loved it and always knew we wanted to return here to hike down into the valley to see the cliff dwellings. This was a bucket list item, especially for me since I now had a new hip and wanted to test it out. The Betataken cliff dwelling was inhabited by the Ancient Puebloans (Anazasi) from approximately 1000 AD for only about 100 years. They raised crops in the valleys and relied on the rivers in the canyons for water. They moved out, most heading toward the Rio Grande river and other sites south, due, likely, to drought and dwindling food supplies. The Navajo, Zuni, and Hopi now living in the 4-corners area are thought to be their descendents.

On Saturday 5/25, we joined 13 other hikers and a National Park Guide on a 5 mile RT hike straight down into the cliff dwelling site and back up. The trek down was on a trail partly carved into the face of the rock on steps created by Navajo Nation members in the 1970's.  It was a little bit dicey for me due to the steep drop down and the slick rock face, but we both made it fine - down and back and I was proud that I had accomplished it. Ernie stuck with me, cheering me on the entire way.  Thank you! One senior hiker did have to get rescued by jeep near the top due to exhaustion, but I made it the whole way!  Yes! We were all fortunate the weather was cool and not in the 100's.

Starting the climb int the canyon

Crimson cactus blooms on the trail

Storage caches for food were discovered at the back.
Corn kernals used for seed can last up to 1000 years.

Massive cliff overhang protected them from sun and storms

Dwellings were carved from rock, bricks made of mud were 
used to build homes and food caches.

They created the bricks from local mud and stacked them using branches.

Groups of families lived together in these small dwellings.

Ready to return to the top

Most of the crowds at the park dispersed after the holiday and the little campground became deserted and quiet once again. This will always be a favorite place for us.

On Monday, 5/27 we will be driving over to Bryce. Since it sits at about 9,000 elevation, we are again expecting snow and rain and we have been watching the dark clouds and weather develop north of us for the past few days. Thank heavens we have had sun and warmth while we were here.

Heading north toward Bryce Canyon 
on our final day