The Grand Tetons!

The Best of the Best! The Tetons
June 28th - July 7th

Once the pass over the Rockies opened up, we headed north through Wyoming to the Tetons.

We love this park and there are many reasons. It is physically beautiful, its facilities are plentiful and well spaced throughout the park and the people who manage it understand the visitor. It offers a variety of options for lodging, restaurants, groceries, laundry, showers, trails, sites to see and plenty of parking spaces for viewing each spectacular site. We were also able to grab a nice, spacious FCFS (First Come First Serve) campsite without hassle on the Sunday before July 4th! The Tetons continues to be our favorite park in the US.

The only downside to the park and camping there is that it has been discovered by all the campers who have HUGE RVs (30 feet plus) and they literally pack the road in the campgrounds with all their vehicles and stuff. It is difficult to drive down the road and the narrow opening in between these rigs without hitting something (a child's bicycle, a slideout bedroom, a dog, a generator, a tent). Simplicity no longer exists in the camping world and it is wildly apparent now.  It's really a shame. Obviously these folks all desperately need these huge rigs, their ATVs and motorcycles, numerous dogs, multiple huge slideouts, outdoor BBQs, Sigh! But I though the purpose of camping was to enjoy nature - not stuff????

We were lucky to have been assigned a tiny campsite at the end of the loop with plenty of trees and bushes around us (because we had a small footprint). Each day - these huge RVs would drive by and would quite literally try to take out a tree or two on the sharp turn. Few low branches remained after they passed. It's nice that the park accommodates them - but a shame that all this excessive need of luxury and stuff impacts the rest of us who choose to camp more frugally and quietly. The tent campsite loops are amazingly quiet and spacious in comparison. A good reason to try tent camping again if it wasn't so uncomfortable when one is over 60.

A little red fox joined us in our site for the first few days - but headed for the bushes when a family with two barking retrievers decided to put down all their stuff next to us on Tuesday. Oh well! We spotted him elsewhere later in the week (over by the tent sites). 

It's interesting what people don't see because they are simply too noisy and too distracted by all their stuff and needs for creature comforts!

Rocky Mountain High!

The Rockies!
June 23 - June 27th

From the San Juans, we decided to explore the Rocky National Park, since we had never before visited there for more than a day. Our plans had been to stay there a week, but due to the fact that the Independence day celebrations would begin the following weekend, we decided to leave the park a few days early in order to arrive at the Tetons on the weekend before the holiday.

Fortunately, we had already made advance reservations (which had even been tough to get even in January) and our campsite was a good site for us.  Unfortunately, the Rocky National Park is one of the first western national parks seen by easterners and it is always very popular and crowded. In addition, many of the roads around and within the park were under construction or closed due to snow and the traffic was significant and frustrating at times. Several things we experienced while there:

• The Visitor Centers were absolutely packed with people asking for information and trail guides. We could barely get in the door.  Go early or late or don't bother.
• The trailheads were impossible to access if car access was needed. The parking lots were packed and visitors were turned away before you could even get close to the trail or the parking lot. We were fortunate, since we had camped in the Moraine CG and several of the trailheads were accessible by hiking directly there from the campsite. Again - go quite early or late, or don't bother. Be sure to take rain gear, since showers are common in the afternoon. The trails were packed with hikers. Not too much serenity and quiet here. But people were nice and friendly and they advised us about elk or moose up ahead near the trail, which was helpful, so we had our cameras ready.  But lots and lots and lots of people.
• The Moraine CG was nicely spaced and not very noisy. Plus, we had nice views of the mountains from our site. The tent-only sites are quite spacious and have lovely views and privacy. Come here without an RV and you will score a lovely site.
• Estes Park was very very crowded with tourists and a visit there involved gearing up mentally for all the traffic and people we would experience there. We would never bother to do that again!
• Our luxury night and dinner out at the Stanley Hotel in Estes Park (supposed to be a special treat) was a joke. An expensive joke. No ghosts; just scary prices, poorly maintained rooms (frighteningly so) and exceptionally poor service. Our non-air-conditioned room (85 degrees - with a view of the parking lot) cost near $400 and took us over an hour to access since there were so many people there checking in at the requisite 4:30 p.m. The hotel is literally falling apart (windows, doors, carpets, etc.) and the owners clearly have only profits on their minds.  Save your money and spend it elsewhere (e.g. the Tetons - where there is a much better value per dollar spent).
• The Trail Ridge Road pass over the mountain is extraordinary (once it is open) and the views are exceptional! We were stuck on the eastern side until it opened up 3 days after we arrived. Lots of people were stuck on the east side and were frustrated and frantic - trying to find something to do - an available hike, a place to park their car, a place for a picnic, etc. We would never advise visiting this park until after the pass is opened, because it is hard to park and get our of your car. The best time to visit may be in the fall, after all the kids are back in school and all the trails are open. 
• The bear boxes are shared with many other campers. Don't expect that the box in your site will only be yours. 

We will probably pass on the Rocky National Park in the future. Nice mountains, but not worth all the hassle and crowds. There are plenty of other parks that are just as pretty. For this reason, we typically avoid Yosemite, Yellowstone and now have added this park to the "list to avoid" during the summer months. 

Here are some pictures from our stay there!

Our campsite.

View of mountains behind our site.

The infamous olde Stanley Hotel sans Jack. Scary poor maintenance.

Charming patio fountain area where we patiently waited
for them to find our "lost" room (took over an hour).

Trail Pass Road over the top of the mountains to the west.

A moose - being a moose!

More of Trail Pass Road. A much better thrill than the Stanley!